As Fashion Month comes to a close, I’ve been reflecting on the collections that truly stayed with me. Not the loudest moments or passing trends, but the pieces that feel like they could slip effortlessly into a real wardrobe.
I’ve always believed great style is about longevity and ease – clothing that works hard for you and moves seamlessly through your life. This season’s runways felt aligned with that idea, with many designers leaning into refined silhouettes, thoughtful layering, and a power of confidence.
Below are the shows and moments that stood out to me this season, and how they translate through a capsule wardrobe lens.
Modern Tailoring, Reimagined
Tailoring remained central this season, but with a softer, more relaxed feel. Designers explored sculpted shoulders, cinched waists, and updated skirt suits, showing how structure can still feel effortless and wearable.
A well-cut blazer or tailored coat continues to be one of the most versatile pieces in a wardrobe, instantly elevating everyday outfits.
New Volume
Silhouettes became more sculptural this season, with exaggerated shapes appearing in trousers, coats, and dresses. Balloon trousers, drop waists, and rounded tailoring offered a fresh take on power dressing.
The key is balance: pair voluminous pieces with cleaner, more minimal staples.
Rich Texture & Tactility
Designers leaned heavily into texture – think faux fur, shearling, soft knits, feathers, and tactile fabrics that invite touch.
These pieces add depth to simple outfits and make even the most minimal wardrobe feel more interesting.
Elevated Outerwear
Outerwear was a real focus this season, from dramatic trench coats to cocooning winter coats and cape-like silhouettes.
A strong coat often becomes the most-worn item in a winter wardrobe, making it the perfect place to invest.
Earthy Neutrals with Bold Accents
The colour palette stayed largely grounded – khaki, brown, camel, and deep neutrals – but was often punctuated with stronger colours like purple or red for contrast.
Even a minimal wardrobe can feel fresh by introducing a single bold colour through knitwear or accessories.
Below are my takes on the shows I loved this season, as well as some of my looks from fashion month:
- Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello continues to refine Saint Laurent’s unmistakable codes: razor-sharp tailoring, sensual silhouettes and an undeniable sense of confidence. This season, the house revisited its iconic Le Smoking – the iconic women’s tuxedo suit introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966 – through strong shoulders and wide-leg trousers, balanced with sheer lace slips, beautiful glossy lace dresses, plunging necklines, and luxurious faux-fur outerwear. The result felt powerful yet seductive – a reminder of Saint Laurent’s enduring ability to make tailoring feel both timeless and daring.
- Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney’s AW26 show was one of the most memorable of the season, staged inside a riding arena where ten horses moved through the sand ring as models walked the oval runway. The equestrian setting reflected McCartney’s lifelong connection to animals and reinforced the house’s commitment to cruelty-free luxury. The collection itself revisited key chapters of the designer’s life: Savile Row-inspired tailoring, stirrup trousers, thigh-high riding boots and relaxed denim sat alongside crochet knits and faux-fur textures. With 93% sustainable materials and an unmistakably personal narrative, the show felt like both a celebration of the brand’s 25-year history and a powerful statement about fashion’s relationship with nature.
- Balmain
Balmain enters a new era under Antonin Tron, whose debut signals a more refined and architectural approach to the house’s historic glamour. Strong shoulders, sculpted silhouettes and rich black leather pieces captured the essence of modern power dressing. While the brand’s signature drama remains, Tron’s vision introduces a more sophisticated restraint that feels fresh for the house.
- Bottega Veneta
Under Louise Trotter, Bottega Veneta’s AW26 collection continued to explore the house’s signature quiet luxury through material and form. Relaxed yet precise tailoring appeared alongside sculptural outerwear and layered textures, emphasising craftsmanship over overt branding. Leather pieces were cut with fluidity, while the silhouettes balanced softness with structure, reinforcing Bottega’s ongoing focus on refined, tactile design.
- Nanushka
Nanushka continues to champion a modern, conscious wardrobe with a distinctly relaxed sensibility. This season blended structured tailoring with soft, draped silhouettes and tactile fabrics. Leopard prints and layered outerwear brought depth to the otherwise neutral palette, reinforcing the brand’s signature balance of ease and sophistication.
- David Koma
David Koma’s AW26 collection delivered the sculptural glamour that has become synonymous with the brand. Precise tailoring and sharply structured outerwear framed sleek silhouettes, while dramatic proportions elevated the sense of modern eveningwear. The collection maintained Koma’s signature tension between structure and sensuality, creating looks that felt powerful, polished and confident.
- Chanel
Matthieu Blazy continued to reinterpret Chanel’s heritage codes with a contemporary edge. Classic tweeds appeared in sharper silhouettes, paired with fluid dresses and streamlined tailoring that brought a sense of movement to the collection. The balance between tradition and modernity felt deliberate: familiar Chanel elements reworked with subtle precision, creating a wardrobe that felt both timeless and newly relevant.
- Magda Butrym
Magda Butrym’s AW26 collection offered a refined take on winter femininity, blending her signature romanticism with stronger, more structured silhouettes. Rich textures, from shearling and leather to chunky knits and crochet, brought depth to an otherwise restrained palette, while hourglass tailoring and belted coats emphasised a confident, sculpted shape. Longer hemlines and elegant knit dresses introduced a slightly more mature mood, balancing sensuality with polish. The result felt tactile, quietly powerful and unmistakably Butrym.
- Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst’s collection balanced refined tailoring with delicate craft, drawing inspiration from humanitarian Eglantyne Jebb. Lace dresses, hand-crocheted pieces and richly textured wool tailoring were central to the collection, while leather outerwear and subtle military references added structure. The palette remained restrained – camel, cream, black and deep reds – reinforcing Hearst’s signature quiet luxury. Elegant yet purposeful, the collection reflected both craftsmanship and a deeper social message.
- Celine
Now under Michael Rider, Celine moves into a new chapter that feels closely aligned with the brand’s heritage of refined minimalism. Structured outerwear, elegant tailoring and a muted palette emphasised timeless sophistication. The collection felt quietly confident – wardrobe pieces designed to endure beyond seasonal trends.
- Louis Vuitton
Architecture and movement came together in a collection that balanced heritage with a futuristic edge. Sculptural outerwear and bold textures contrasted with fluid dresses and tailoring, while metallic accents and statement accessories added drama. The result felt dynamic and imaginative – reinforcing Louis Vuitton’s ability to merge craftsmanship with forward-thinking design.
- Victoria Beckham
Precision and restraint defined the season, with clean tailoring and fluid midi dresses forming the foundation of the collection. Soft draping, elongated silhouettes and sculpted waists created a quietly confident wardrobe, punctuated by rich autumnal tones and glossy textures.
- Givenchy
Sarah Burton’s vision for Givenchy centres on powerful femininity. Sharp tailoring was softened with lace, fluid dresses, and sculptural details, creating a dynamic contrast between strength and elegance. The collection felt both modern and emotional, reflecting Burton’s signature ability to combine precision with sensitivity.
- Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry continues to bring theatrical artistry to Schiaparelli. Sculptural silhouettes, gilded embellishments, and dramatic textures created a sense of surreal glamour. The collection felt bold yet refined – couture-level imagination translated into powerful ready-to-wear.
- Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant’s signature Parisian cool remains unmistakable. This season combined relaxed tailoring with textured outerwear and effortless layering. The result felt wearable yet stylish – the kind of pieces that form the backbone of a confident everyday wardrobe.
- Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann’s direction for Tom Ford brings a new elegance to the house’s sensual DNA. Fluid tailoring, rich textures and refined silhouettes replaced overt glamour with a more poetic form of sophistication. The collection felt luxurious yet quietly restrained.
- Elie Saab
Elie Saab embraced the house’s signature glamour, presenting a series of richly embellished gowns and sharply tailored eveningwear. Intricate embroidery, textures and sheer layers brought depth and movement to the collection, while structured jackets and elegant silhouettes added modern polish. A palette of jewel tones, black, and soft neutrals reinforced Saab’s timeless vision of femininity – opulent, romantic, and unmistakably refined.
