If New York set the tone for the season, Milan turned the volume up. There was no shortage of strong silhouettes, unexpected styling and plenty to take note of across the city’s biggest shows. From polished tailoring and dramatic outerwear to a renewed take on some of fashion’s most recognisable codes, Milan offered plenty of inspiration for the season ahead.
Here’s my roundup of the collections that caught my eye – the standout pieces, trends and details I’ll be thinking about long after fashion week is over.
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani’s SS27 collection marked a new chapter for the house, with Silvana Armani, Giorgio’s niece and longtime collaborator, continuing his legacy. The collection stayed true to the signature relaxed tailoring and understated elegance, but I particularly loved the use of texture and embellishment. Shimmering fabrics, intricate beading and metallic details brought a sense of glamour to the pieces, while the fluid eveningwear was a real highlight. The butterfly motifs were a lovely finishing touch, subtly reflecting the idea of transformation. A beautiful tribute to Giorgio Armani, with a glimpse of what’s to come under Silvana’s direction.
Ferragamo
Maximilian Davis looked to 1940s dressing for Ferragamo, bringing a modern, sensual edge to the era’s structured silhouettes. I loved the emphasis on the waist, from the sharply tailored jackets to the high-waisted trousers, which contrasted so beautifully with the softer, flowing fabrics. The sheer rubber trench coats and sculptural leather pieces added an unexpected edge, while the draped silk dresses and delicate embellishments brought plenty of glamour. The collection felt both powerful and feminine, with a real sense of confidence running through it.
Max Mara
nspired by the adventurous women of the 1930s, Max Mara brought a utilitarian feel to its signature tailoring. The safari jackets, oversized trenches and wide-leg trousers were some of my favourite pieces, all styled with a relaxed, almost masculine edge. The earthy tones and rich chocolate browns worked beautifully with the softer fabrics, while the sheer layers and fluid eveningwear added a more sensual element. There was something particularly appealing about the way practical pieces were given a luxurious feel without losing their functionality. A lovely mix of adventure, femininity and classic Max Mara.
Bottega Veneta
Texture was the real star of Bottega Veneta this season. Louise Trotter played with the house’s signature intrecciato weaving, reimagining it through intricate knits, crochet and beautiful fringed details. I particularly loved the contrast between the oversized outerwear and the lighter, more fluid pieces, with relaxed tailoring giving way to delicate layers and flowing skirts. The fringe skirts were a real highlight, bringing so much movement to the collection, while the pops of lilac, butter yellow and tangerine added a welcome burst of colour. It felt like a fresh, lighter direction for Bottega Veneta, without losing the craftsmanship that makes the house so special.
Elisabetti Franchi
There was an interesting contrast between sportswear and eveningwear at Elisabetta Franchi this season. Oversized blazers and relaxed trench coats were styled with cycling shorts, corsetry and sheer, figure-hugging pieces, creating a much more unexpected take on the brand’s signature femininity. The play on transparency was a real highlight, with tights reimagined as dresses, skirts and tops, alongside oversized sequins that almost looked liquid in movement. Touches of red, leopard print and leather added plenty of personality, while the more minimal silhouettes allowed the details to shine. It was a fresh take on sensual dressing, with a slightly more playful edge.
Fendi
Maria Grazia Chiuri took a more sensual approach to Fendi this season, exploring the relationship between clothing and the body. Inspired by Italian pop icon Raffaella Carrà, the collection had a real sense of freedom, with sheer 1970s-inspired dresses, lace bralettes and low-slung trousers bringing a playful, almost disco feel. I loved the contrast between these more revealing pieces and the oversized tailoring, particularly the military jackets and flowing trench coats. The styling felt relaxed and a little rebellious, while the mix of lingerie, leather and fur added plenty of texture. It was a celebration of femininity, individuality and dressing entirely on your own terms.
TOD’S
There was a lovely mix of masculine tailoring and softer, more feminine pieces at Tod’s this season. Matteo Tamburini looked to his own ’90s influences, bringing a sporty feel to the house’s signature Italian style. Oversized shirts, tailored Bermuda shorts and relaxed leather trench coats were some of my favourite looks, while the geometric shapes and colour-blocking added a more playful element. The leather pieces were particularly beautiful, with unexpected cut-outs and fluid silhouettes giving them a fresh feel. It was a collection that felt relaxed and modern, while still retaining the understated elegance that makes Tod’s so recognisable.
Sportmax
Sportmax took a practical approach to summer dressing this season, reworking everyday wardrobe staples for a world of rising temperatures. I loved the clever use of sheer fabrics, particularly the layered silk organza, which brought a real lightness to the collection. Tailoring was another highlight, with sleeveless blazers, relaxed trousers and sharp silhouettes giving classic workwear a completely new feel. There were some lovely details too, from the metallic belts and transparent layers to the pops of orange in the accessories. It was a fresh take on everyday dressing, proving that even the most practical pieces can still feel interesting.
And that’s a wrap on Milan. There’s plenty to take away from this season, but if there’s one thing I’m leaving with, it’s a renewed appreciation for great tailoring, strong silhouettes and those little details that make an outfit feel special. Now, onto Paris…
