As many of you know, I’ve been in New York for Fashion Week this past week – and I actually only got back this morning. It’s been such a special few days for me, not only because I was there experiencing NYFW, but because New York has always felt like such a huge part of my life.
For those who have been reading for a while, you’ll know that I used to live in New York. So being back, particularly during Fashion Week, felt incredibly nostalgic. It reminded me of so many different chapters of my life and, honestly, made me remember just how much I love this city.
There’s something about New York that is so difficult to put into words. The energy, the pace, the people, the creativity – there is always something happening and somewhere to go. Walking around the city again, seeing the streets filled with people heading to shows and events, and being surrounded by fashion everywhere I looked brought back so many memories. It also reminded me why I fell in love with fashion in the first place.
Of course, the clothes were the main event, and there was so much to take in across the week. From beautiful, fluid silhouettes and romantic dressing to sharp tailoring, leather, sequins and plenty of New York attitude, SS27 had such a diverse mix of collections.
I wanted to share some of my favourite collections and a few thoughts on each one – what stood out to me, the pieces I loved and the collections that stayed in my mind after the shows.
I absolutely loved the shapes and proportions in this collection. From the oversized tailoring to the most beautiful draped dresses, long fluid silhouettes and incredible volume, there was so much movement throughout. The colour palette was beautiful too, with clementine, red, saffron yellow, soft lilac and green alongside black and white. I also loved how some of the most dramatic dresses were styled with flat sandals and sculptural arm cuffs. It made everything feel modern and effortless rather than too precious. Such a beautiful balance of softness and strength.
The mix of polished tailoring and more lived-in, undone pieces really stood out in this collection. The long, slouchy proportions, oversized trenches and relaxed trousers gave everything such an effortless feel, while the inside-out tailoring and exposed linings made familiar Coach pieces feel fresh. I also loved the contrast between the muted greys, khakis and faded florals and the more playful sequins, metallics and pastel shades that came later. The birthday-inspired details, from the little party hats to the gift-wrapped bags and confetti-covered pieces, were such a fun way to celebrate 85 years without making the collection feel overly nostalgic. It felt cool, youthful and a little bit undone in the best way.
There was such a beautiful mix of classic Ralph Lauren and more romantic, unexpected details throughout this collection. The proportions were so good, from the low-slung, super-wide trousers to the fitted waistcoats and slim jackets, creating such a great contrast. I also loved the palette of navy, white and denim with pops of rich red, floral prints and metallics. Feather-trimmed denim, corsetry and draped evening dresses added an unexpected sensuality, while everything still felt unmistakably Ralph Lauren. Such a good balance of polished tailoring and relaxed, romantic dressing.
There was something so refreshing about how stripped-back this collection felt. Veronica Leoni really focused on the foundations of a wardrobe, with sharp tailoring, slim trousers, pencil skirts, denim and beautifully simple slip dresses taking centre stage. I particularly liked the longer, leaner proportions and the way everything was styled so simply, allowing the shape of each piece to speak for itself. Flashes of scarlet, yellow and shades of blue added just enough contrast, while the silver headbands and oversized bags gave the looks a cool finishing touch. It felt understated without being boring, and very true to what makes Calvin Klein so good in the first place.
This collection was such a good reminder that spring dressing doesn’t always have to mean lightweight fabrics and barely-there silhouettes. Jonathan Simkhai played with leather, knit and lace in ways that felt completely unexpected, from a black leather T-shirt dress with delicate chiffon fringe to sculptural knit pieces and intricate lace gowns. The mix of harder textures with softer, more feminine details worked so well, while flashes of primary colour and glossy denim brought a playful element to the collection. There was so much craftsmanship in the details, but nothing felt overly precious. Modern, sexy and slightly unexpected.
Khaite took a much softer direction for SS27, and it really worked. There were romantic lace dresses, delicate lingerie-inspired pieces, sheer fabrics and beautiful ruffled detailing, but the collection never felt too sweet thanks to the leather, corsetry and sharper tailoring running throughout. The way those tougher elements were mixed with the more feminine pieces was probably my favourite part, especially the cropped leather jackets paired with flowing skirts and dresses. Even with all the intricate detailing, everything still felt relaxed. A softer side to Khaite, but still with plenty of attitude. The only thing I wasn’t sold on was the deliberately undone hair – personally, I would have preferred something more polished.
Altuzarra felt like such a joyful departure from some of the more restrained collections this season. The mix of 1950s-inspired full skirts, oversized biker jackets, sharp tailoring and delicate, feminine dresses created some really unexpected combinations. I particularly liked the way masculine pieces were styled with more romantic silhouettes, while details like exposed embroidery, lace and lingerie-inspired layers gave everything a slightly undone feel. There was a real sense of freedom throughout, with the clothes feeling expressive and playful rather than overly polished. Such a fun, confident collection that still felt very much like Altuzarra.
Magda Butrym explored a lighter, softer side for SS27, while still playing with the contrasts she does so well. Sheer layers, lingerie-inspired slips, lace and fluid silhouettes were balanced with strong shoulders, leather and oversized outerwear. I loved the Polish references throughout, from the florals and roses to the fluid, siren-like silhouettes. Feminine and sensual, but with just enough strength to stop it feeling too pretty. The show also marked a big moment for the Polish designer in New York, coinciding with the opening of her first permanent NYC boutique in SoHo.
Ulla Johnson brought her signature femininity into a much more urban setting for SS27. Sheer skirts, gauzy dresses and hand-painted florals felt beautifully light against sharper pieces like cropped trenches, soft tailoring and oversized denim. I especially loved the colour palette, with soft pastels mixed with warmer earthy shades throughout. The transparency was beautiful, with delicate layers creating so much movement, while the relaxed denim and poplin shirts brought everything back down to earth. I liked the way the collection moved between everyday dressing and something much more occasion-worthy without either feeling out of place. Romantic, but with a distinctly New York attitude.
Brandon Maxwell went back to basics for SS27, and there was something so appealing about the simplicity of it all. The collection centred around strong tailoring, straight-leg trousers, relaxed button-downs and sleek outerwear, with the occasional catsuit adding a more sensual edge. I particularly liked how clean and considered the pieces felt without relying on excessive styling or embellishment. The black, white, khaki and grey palette was punctuated by flashes of red and a surprising hit of chartreuse, while box pleats and sculptural evening pieces brought a little more drama towards the end. A collection that proves you really don’t need to overcomplicate good clothes.
Kallmeyer’s SS27 collection felt like a masterclass in making everyday dressing feel elevated. Inspired by traditional Japanese packaging, Daniella Kallmeyer played with texture and structure through intricate knits, raised beading, fringe and sculptural layers. I loved the way more relaxed pieces were styled with sharper tailoring, particularly the cummerbunds worn over trousers. The little crocheted egg bags were such a clever detail too, adding a playful touch to an otherwise very polished collection. There was a real sense of thought behind every look, but the clothes still felt incredibly wearable.
AREA really embraced the fun side of fashion this season. I loved the contrast between more everyday pieces like oversized jeans, simple tees and camis and the much more elaborate looks covered in fringe, pearls and metallic details. The shredded sequin dresses were such a cool idea too, creating an almost liquid-like texture. There was something very playful about the collection, but it never felt like dressing up for the sake of it. It had that perfect AREA energy – made for going out, but with plenty of pieces you could imagine wearing the morning after too.
Henry Zankov’s first NYFW collection for Diane von Furstenberg felt like a fresh take on everything that makes the house so recognisable. The iconic wrap dress was reworked in body-skimming jersey and sheer fabrics, while flowing scarf dresses, bias-cut silks and long, lean silhouettes gave the collection so much movement. I loved the mix of bold colour and clashing prints too, particularly the animal prints, vivid tailoring and unexpected combinations of purple, green, red and yellow. There was a real sense of freedom to the way the clothes moved around the body, making the collection feel sensual, confident and very much made for a woman on the move.
There was such a sense of freedom running through Proenza Schouler’s SS27 collection. Rachel Scott played with the idea that there really are no rules to getting dressed in New York, mixing sequinned gowns with everyday pieces, sharp tailoring with fluid draping and more relaxed silhouettes. I loved the contrast between the graphic tiger motifs, sheer layers and asymmetric shapes, particularly where they were styled with much simpler pieces. The craftsmanship was another highlight, with intricate handwork and fabric techniques giving even the more pared-back looks plenty of interest. It felt confident, modern and very New York – a collection that makes dressing up feel completely appropriate at any time of day.
TWP’s SS27 collection made a strong case for clothes that are actually made to be lived in. Relaxed shirting, fluid skirts, wide-leg trousers and sharp tailoring came together to create a wardrobe that felt polished without being overly formal. I particularly liked the mix of textures, from crisp cottons and lightweight nylon to soft suede and leather, which gave even the simplest looks plenty of depth. The contrast between the sporty opening looks and the more refined pieces that followed worked so well, while the oversized proportions kept everything feeling fresh. Practical, but never predictable – exactly the kind of wardrobe you could see yourself reaching for again and again.
Michael Kors took us straight into a modernist dream for SS27. The mid-century and ’60s influences were everywhere, from the sharp, graphic silhouettes to the white go-go boots and bug-eye sunglasses, but the collection still felt incredibly fresh. I loved the asymmetric cuts in particular, with zig-zag hems, trailing streamers and sculptural shapes giving even the simplest dresses a sense of movement. The brushstroke prints and Matisse-inspired sequins brought an artistic quality to the clothes, while the bold red, yellow, green and blue felt so joyful against the black and white. Polished, playful and full of personality – such a fun take on modernist dressing.
Norma Kamali brought together so many sides of her design language for SS27, from sleek, body-conscious dresses to much more relaxed everyday pieces. I particularly liked the mix of the Studio 54-inspired jeans, oversized tees and sporty tracksuits with the more glamorous sheer dresses and sculptural cut-outs. The gossamer layers and skin-baring silhouettes felt very true to Kamali, while the more casual pieces gave the collection a really modern, wearable quality. There was also something fun about the self-affirming slogans and playful striped pieces, which added a little personality without taking away from the clothes. A collection that managed to feel both nostalgic and completely relevant for now.
Theory SS27 / Effortless, minimal and very New York. This is what Theory does so well – timeless pieces that still feel completely modern. Under Dushane Noble, who leads the womenswear design team, there’s a real ease to the tailoring and I loved the play on proportions throughout. Clean lines, relaxed shapes and beautifully simple pieces you know you’ll still want to wear years from now. Nothing felt overdone or overly styled. Just incredibly chic clothes for real life. Undone elegance at its finest.
And just like that, NYFW SS27 is over. It was such a special week to experience, but even more so to be back in a city that holds so many memories for me. I’m leaving New York feeling very inspired – not just by the clothes, but by the energy, creativity and constant sense of possibility that makes the city so unique.
Now, back to London!
Love, Erna x
*Images from Vogue Runway
